A popular motivational speaker was entertaining his audience.
He Said,
"The Best years in my life were spent in the arms of a woman
who wasn't my wife!"....
The audience was in silence and shock.
The Speaker added.....
"And that woman was my mother!"
There was all round Laughter and Applause.
~~~~~
A week later, a top manager trained by the motivational speaker tried to crack this very effective joke at home.
He was a bit foggy after a drink.
He said Loudly,
"The greatest years of my life was spent in the arms of a woman
who was not my wife!"
The wife went shock and rage.
Standing there for 20 seconds trying to recall the second half of the Joke, the manager finally blurt out,
"......and I can't remember who she was!"
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Moral:
Don't Copy if you can't Paste
Friday, June 12, 2009
Thursday, June 11, 2009
HOW TO TRAIN A RABBIT
1. Understand what motivates your rabbit. Unlike our canine friends, rabbits aren’t naturally particularly motivated to please the “top dog.” This means that strong punishment, such as spanking or yelling at a rabbit, won’t make him more cooperative (many people say these behaviors are actually counterproductive to training dogs, as well). Rabbits, however, are very intelligent and eagerly respond to incentives. If you use these incentives correctly, most rabbits will respond accordingly.
2. Devote plenty of time to training. For best results, you should plan on initially devoting at least 30 minutes, and preferably an hour or two, every day to training your rabbit. It may seem like a lot of time, but in the long run it’s well worth it. Don’t worry: you’ll probably only need to do this for a week or two. In fact, you may begin to see results on the first day.
3. Use your rabbit’s favorite treats. Since training is based on incentives, you’ll need to find a treat that provides the best incentive possible. If you don’t know what your rabbit’s favorite treat is, try to figure it out. If you’re not sure if a particular food is safe for your rabbit, check with your vet.
4. Get your rabbit in position for training. Stage your training in the area and situation where and when you will want the behavior to occur. For example, if you want to teach your rabbit to jump up on your lap when called, first put him near the couch. If you want to train him to go in his crate at night, train him around the appropriate time, and make sure his crate is positioned where it will normally be.
5. Give your rabbit a treat immediately when he performs your request. If you want to teach your rabbit to come when called, start her training by having her positioned very close to you. When she comes to you, give her the reward. Be consistent. Make sure that your companion knows why he’s getting a treat. Use the exact same commands, such as “Sit, Fluffy,” or “Up, Fluffy,” every time, so your rabbit will learn to recognize your requests and associate those exact words with getting a treat.
6. Keep providing the treats until your rabbit responds correctly nearly every time. When you’re trying to teach a new skill, don’t skimp on the rewards. You need to make sure you are thoroughly conditioning your rabbit.
7. Gradually wean your rabbit off the treats. Once your bunny has a skill down pat, begin to give the treats less frequently. Give him his reward once and then don’t the next time, or give him a treat only every few times. Eventually you may not need treats at all. In time, reward your rabbit with petting and toys, and only use food occasionally to keep the behavior strong.
8.Reinforce the training as necessary. From time to time your rabbit may need to relearn a skill. That is, you may need to bring the incentives back. Don’t be afraid to do so.
2. Devote plenty of time to training. For best results, you should plan on initially devoting at least 30 minutes, and preferably an hour or two, every day to training your rabbit. It may seem like a lot of time, but in the long run it’s well worth it. Don’t worry: you’ll probably only need to do this for a week or two. In fact, you may begin to see results on the first day.
3. Use your rabbit’s favorite treats. Since training is based on incentives, you’ll need to find a treat that provides the best incentive possible. If you don’t know what your rabbit’s favorite treat is, try to figure it out. If you’re not sure if a particular food is safe for your rabbit, check with your vet.
4. Get your rabbit in position for training. Stage your training in the area and situation where and when you will want the behavior to occur. For example, if you want to teach your rabbit to jump up on your lap when called, first put him near the couch. If you want to train him to go in his crate at night, train him around the appropriate time, and make sure his crate is positioned where it will normally be.
5. Give your rabbit a treat immediately when he performs your request. If you want to teach your rabbit to come when called, start her training by having her positioned very close to you. When she comes to you, give her the reward. Be consistent. Make sure that your companion knows why he’s getting a treat. Use the exact same commands, such as “Sit, Fluffy,” or “Up, Fluffy,” every time, so your rabbit will learn to recognize your requests and associate those exact words with getting a treat.
6. Keep providing the treats until your rabbit responds correctly nearly every time. When you’re trying to teach a new skill, don’t skimp on the rewards. You need to make sure you are thoroughly conditioning your rabbit.
7. Gradually wean your rabbit off the treats. Once your bunny has a skill down pat, begin to give the treats less frequently. Give him his reward once and then don’t the next time, or give him a treat only every few times. Eventually you may not need treats at all. In time, reward your rabbit with petting and toys, and only use food occasionally to keep the behavior strong.
8.Reinforce the training as necessary. From time to time your rabbit may need to relearn a skill. That is, you may need to bring the incentives back. Don’t be afraid to do so.
HOW TO HOLD A PENCIL FOR SMOOTHER DRAWING
There are many myths about how an artist should hold a pencil. Trying to force yourself to use an artificial grip is probably one of the worst things you can do for your drawing, creating stress and upsetting the natural flow of your line.
The most common way to hold a pencil is the basic tripod grip. The basic tripod grip is the same as the one you probably use for writing. The thumb and forefinger form a triangle with the middle finger as shown, which is supported by the ring finger and pinkie. This grip allows the pencil to be finely controlled by the fingers, so holding a pencil this way is ideal for drawing fine detail. The upright position of the pencil allows for accurate shading with the tip, rather than side, of the pencil.
When you hold a pencil using the the tripod grip, you use your fingers and thumb to control the pencil, and for fine work, the hand can rest on the page. Use a spare sheet of paper to keep your drawing free from smudges and skin oils. If more movement is required, the wrist or elbow can be rested against the edge of the drawing surface, used as a pivot.
Another useful way to hold a pencil is in the extended tripod grip. This pencil grip uses the same hold as the basic tripod grip, with a triangle formed by the thumb, forefinger and middle finger, but further up the pencil. Because it is similar to the basic grip, this is a comfortable way to hold a pencil for drawing, while allowing more freedom.
When you hold the pencil in the extended tripod grip, small movements of the fingers can produce a much larger movement of the pencil-tip, so it is an economical and efficient grip for sketching. For best results, make sure you keep a relaxed grip on the pencil - a tight, vicelike grip is tiring and restricting.
When you hold the pencil in the extended tripod grip, small movements of the fingers can produce a much larger movement of the pencil-tip, so it is an economical and efficient grip for sketching. For best results, make sure you keep a relaxed grip on the pencil - a tight, vicelike grip is tiring and restricting.
When you ask how to hold a pencil, the overhand grip is the one most often recommended for sketching, as it makes it easy to use the side of the pencil. To make the overhand grip, the pencil is braced lightly against the fingers with the flat of the thumb. The actual position will vary according the the proportions of your hand: the main thing is to have a secure but relaxed grip on the pencil.
The overhand grip is a popular way to hold the pencil for sketching. The overhand grip allows you to shade with the side of the pencil. It is also a useful pencil hold for vertical drawing surfaces, such as an easel. For best results with the overhand grip, sit or stand so that the arm has a full range of movement, allowing for free, expressive mark-making. The overhand grip is often demonstrated as the 'correct' way to hold a pencil for drawing, but while it is a useful method, it is no more correct than any other pencil grip.
The underhand pencil grip is a very loose and relaxed way of holding a pencil. This example is basically a tipped-over tripod grip, but you can also move the thumb higher or allow the pencil to sit in the 'V' of the thumb and palm, with the index and middle finger lightly controlling the tip. Holding a pencil with the underhand grip is useful for casual, broad sketching, such as with charcoal pencil.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
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